Slovenia • May, 2003 • Radovljica and Lesce

The earliest train left from Ljubljana for Radovljica at 06.08, then there was a four-hour gap until the next train departed. While pondering my choices the night before the ride, I was leaning toward the later departure. By coincidence, I woke up at 05.30 in the morning, so I decided to get an early start. Without even showering, a rarity to me, I packed my backpack and head to the train station.

For this trip, I was on an older train. The rolling stock used for this early departure must have been a vestige of the old Yugoslavian railway system, as the cars appeared older than ten years. It was a local train service, calling on just about every town between Ljubljana and Radovljica; the stops included: Ljubljana Vižmarje, Medno, Medova, Reteče, Škofja Loka, Kranj, Rodnart, Otoče and Globoko. At each stop, several teenagers boarded the train. By the time the train reached Radovljica, about 90% of the riders were students. Most of these kids disembarked at Radovljica and seemed headed for the Srednja Ekonomsko-Turistična Šola.

Radovljica appears to be as sleepy as Kranj; this may be due to my early arrival (around 07.00). Since most of the sights were buildings, I didn't miss anything by arriving this early. The town sits on a plateau that rises about seventy-five (75) meters above the surrounding countryside. Though settled by the Slavs, the town did not become prominent until the Germans made it a market town in the 14^th c. CE. Wealth was also made in the founderies that used the local iron ore to make tools and instruments. This prominence encouraged the town's leaders to building a defensive wall around the city.

Most of the town's sights sit on the Linhartov trg, which is named for Anton Tomaš Linhart - Slovenia's first dramatist and historian. According to the Lonely Planet guide book, this square has been called "the most homogenous old town area in Slovenia" (LP3°). If this is the case, then the ideal Slovenian square is narrow with a number of cafés on the perimeter.

The largest building on the square is the former Thurn Manor, which can be seen in the pictures above. Started as the Ortenburg Castle in the medieval times, the earthquake of 1511 damaged the structure. It was renovated in the Baroque style, which is the style shown today. The entrance portal is flanked by two interesting facial carvings, while each window is capped with a different facial carving. The building now hosts the Čebelarski Muzej. This museum describes the history of beekeeping in Slovenia. At its zenith in the 18^th and 19^th c. CE, this activity has been central to Slovenian life (remember the woman holding the beehive atop the former People's Loan Bank in Ljubljana - it symbolized industry). Unfortunately, the museum was closed during my visit, so I was not able to learn about Anton Janša's development of the Carniolan grey bee species. Maybe next time ...

There are a number of beautifully decorated houses on the square. Working from south to north, these houses include:

The Šiveca Hiša, with its painted fresco of the Good Samaritan. The red flag above the door advertises the art gallery that now occupies the building - Galerija Šiveca Hiša.

On the northeast corner is the Vidiča Hiša, which has a beautifully colored turret on its southern face. Like most of the other buildings on the square, the frescoes could use a touch of paint. On the northwest corner, there is a statue commemorating Josipinc Hočevarjevi. (I'm not sure who this person is; if you know, please email me.)

To the north of the main street is a beautiful park. Though I am sure the park had a name, I could not find a sign that indicated it. There is a grassy strip with benches on the exterior. At the southern end is playground equipment for the young residents of Radovljica. There is a column in the center of the park that commemorates Jože Gregorćić. Is this a relic of the Yugoslav period? The inscription seemed to indicate that he did something important in the Partisan group (Tito's organization) in 1971. Also, when I was photographing the column, there were some young schoolchildren walking through the park. They gave me a strange look - I'm not sure if was because I was taking an interest in the column or that I was a tourist.

Since it was a nice day, I decided to hike the six kilometers to Bled. The first two kilometers could be done on sidewalks next to a two-lane road, which took me to the only town on the route - Lesce. It did not seem to have any special attractions, except for a large church off the main road. The tower was constructed in 1664 and had a plaque on the east side commemorating a guy named Walland. In the courtyard that surrounded the church was the graves of church members. On the southern façade was a fresco of a woman holding a child. The interior had a beautiful main altar, with a few alcoves. In the choir, there was a small organ.

The next four kilometers were not the easiest to complete. The sidewalk ended just outside Lesce and the road became more like a state highway with quickly moving traffic. I walked on a narrow foot path along the road. It was a beautiful walk and I really got to see the countryside. I crossed the Sava Dolinka River, and this view is represented below. Most of the walk was downhill, with a small incline as I approached Bled. I certainly needed to find an alternate way to get back to Lesce, from where I was schedule to board the train back to Ljubljana.