My last day in Buenos Aires was a washout, literally.  It rained all day, which prevented me from seeing as much as I would have liked.  I limited my day's activities to Monserrat, saving La Boca for the next visit to the Argentine capital.

Monserrat
This is central barrio of Buenos Aires where most of the offices and government buildings are located.  My tour started with the Palacio de los Deportes, also known as Luna Park.  This building sits on the site of a former boxing ring, where Perón first met Evita.  Nearby is the Bolsa de Comercio, the country’s stock exchange.  The building dates from 1916 and public visits are not permitted.

Designed by Juan de Garay in the 1580s, the Plaza de Mayo was the settlement’s original square and arranged in the Spanish colonial style.   In 1808, the square was named Plaza Victoria by the invading British forces, then received its present monikor two years later to commemorate the declaration of Argentina’s independence on 25 May 1810.  On this day, the square hosted the masses, who came to celebrate the deposition of the Spanish viceroy and the inauguration of the Primera Junta led by Cornelio Saavedra.   The square was redesigned in 1880 by architect Juan Buschiazzo and landscaped a few years later by Charles Thays.  In the 20^th c. CE, the square hosted many rallies by Perón’s descamisados and was bombed by the military in 1955.  Since it was raining outside, there was very little activity in the square. 

There are a number of important buildings around the Plaza de Mayo.  Sitting at the eastern end is the Casa Rosada, Argentina’s most famous landmark and presidential palace.  Constructed between 1862 and 1885 in the European Renaissance style, the structure sits on top of the remains of an old fort.  The building’s pink hue originated during the rule of Sarmiento, “… when it was traditional to add ox blook to whitewash to provide color and thicken the mix” (TO, 65).   The building’s central balcony has been used by dictators and presidents to address the masses; it was also used by Madonna in the filming of Evita.  On the southern edge of the building the Museo de la Casa Rosada, which chronicles the history of the building.

Facing the Casa Rosada on the southwestern corner of the Plaza de Mayo is the Cabildo, a traditional occupant of a settlement’s main square in the Spanish colonial style.  Built between 1725 and 1765, the building housed the city council until 1821.  The building shows a section of the recova, the colonnade that completely encircled the plaza at one time.

The façade of the Cabildo, the original city hall of Buenos Aires	A section of the recova, which used to wrap entirely around the Plaza de Mayo.

Built in 1926, the Edificio Menendez-Behety was the headquarters of firm specializing in Patagonian wool.  The building is typical of the turn-of-the-century French style that is prevalent in the section of the capital.  Across the street is the Catedral Metropolitano, the seat of the Archbishop of Buenos Aires.  Consecrated in 1836 and considered the country’s finest example of neoclassical architecture, this is the sixth church structure on this site.  The façade, though, originates from 1791 and took 120 years to complete.  The inside is typical of most Latin American churches.  There are two interesting characteristics of the church’s interior: first, “… the rococo, floral main altar stands out, as does a life-sized Christ made from the wood of the native carob tree, dating from the 18^th c. CE and the oldest sculpted figure in the city” (TO, 66).  The second is the mausoleum dedicated to the country’s liberator, General José San Martín.  On the exterior of the building is the general’s eternal flame.

After experiencing the Plaza de Mayo, I headed west on Avenida de Mayo.  Opened in 1894 to link the Plaza de Mayo with Plaza del Congreso, the street is the city’s oldest.   The Subte, which was Latin America’s first subway line when it opened in 1913, runs for five miles underneath the street.  The street is filled with second-hand book stores, of which sold me some books covering Argentine history. 

At the western end of the Avenida de Mayo is the Plaza del Congreso.  The plaza is shaded by several types of trees, including the tipa, jacaranda and ceibo (the country’s national tree).  Because of its proximity to the congress buildings, the plaza is a magnet for demonstrations, including retirees who gather here every Wednesday to demand their pensions.  In the center of the plaza is the Monumeno a los Dos Congresos.  Installed in 1914, the monument celebrates the two congresses that catalyzed Argentina’s 19^th c. CE independence movement: the 1813 Assembly in Buenos Aires that abolished slavery in the colony and the 1816 Tucumán congress that effectively ended Spanish rule in the country.  By the time I had reached the square, the intensity of the rainfall had increased, and I was soon looking for cover.

At the western edge of the square is the Greco-Roman domed Palacio del Congreso.  Designed by Victor Meano and finished in 1906 for the country’s centenary celebrations, the building is home to Argentina’s Senate (south side) and House of Representatives (north side).  According to the Insight Guide, “… The interior is decorated with appropriate pomp: important paintings, bronze and marble sculptures, luxurious red carpets, silk curtains and wood paneling” (122).  Since I couldn’t enter the building, I’ll have to take the guide book at its word.

From here, I took a cab back to the hotel.  I did not venture to La Boca, reserving that trek for my next visit to the Argentine capital.  I spent most of the afternoon in the hotel room, napping and packing for my trip to Salta.

Proceed to Day 7 - Salta or return to the Argentina Main Page

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