Croatia • May, 2003 • Korcula

History
Korčula was featured in Travel and Leisure's May, 2003 article on the twenty-five most beautiful small towns in Europe. After reading the article, I decided to include it in my Croatian adventure. Enhancing the town's mystique was the Lonely Planet's review, "... a typical medieval Dalmatian town" (LP3°, 285). Almost at the last minute, I decided to pass through the town on my way to Dubrovnik, instead of making a special trip once I had reached the southern Dalmatian town.

The town has been an important port and destination for over a thousand years. In the 11^th c. CE, Byzantium, the incumbent ruler of Dalmatia, granted administrative proxy to the Venetian doge for the southern Dalmatian region, including Korčula. The town is first mentioned in documents from the 13^th c CE as a "walled city".

The current walled city was built in the 15^th c. CE, which coincided with the zenith of the island's stone carving industry. The town's layout was cleverly designed to ensure the safety and comfort of its residents. Streets running west are straight, which allows the westerly maestral winds to cool the city. Streets running east are curved slightly southward to minimize the effects of the cool bura winds. Streets running allowed for easy access to the protective barracks on the Pelješki Channel. In the 16^th c. CE, the island's distinctive carvers gave the town a Renaissance feel with ornate columns and and the Venetian coats-of-arms.

In the 17^th c. CE and the 18^th c. CE, the town expanded southward as the threat of Turkish invasion subsided; this growth attracted a new batch of merchants and artisans. In 1806, the Russians occupied Korčula as they battled the French for control of the Balkans. French rule ended in 1813, when France suffered losses in battles against Russia. Britain seized control of Korčula briefly, then it became part of the Kingdom of Dalmatia, which was a puppet government under the control of Austria.

The town slipped into obscurity until the recent war of independence, when it played a small part. The Slavija, a boat full of human rights activists, called on Korčula's port during its October, 1991 tour to draw attention to the plight of Dalmatia. The boat and its associated flotilla, is credited with stopping the Yugoslav army's bombardment of Dubrovnik.

Tour
The ferry from Orebić drops passengers about six kilometers from the town's center. It is a long walk, but provides some great views on an overlook to the city. If coming from Orebić, walk if the weather is suitable; if not, bring your car or take a taxi from the ferry port.


*Marking the entrance to Korčula*	*The town, as seen from the road approaching from the south*

When entering the town from the south, visitors pass through the Kopnena vrata, which is the land gate. Visitors must ascend a twenty-step staircase to enter the much older 14^th c CE Veliki Revelin tower. The staircase replaced a drawbridge in the 18th c CE, while the tower is decorated with the coats-of-arms of the Venetians doges and Dalmatian governors. On the west wall of a small loge, there is a small plaque remembering two island residents that lost their lives during World War I. Once entering the city, the visitors pass under an arch that was added in the mid 17^th c CE to remember Leonardo Foscolo, the Dalmatian governor who led the Venetian forces to victory over the Turks in the battle to rule Crete (the Candia War). Beyond the arch, there is a small alcove on the east with an icon of the Madonna with child.

On Trg Braće Radić sits the diminutive Crkva sevtog Mihovila. The church honors the Brotherhood of Saint Michael, a charitable organization founded in the Middle Ages. The doorway is guarded by an icon of Saint Michael, with carving of human faces above the front windows. The building is inscribed with the date '1651', indicating the church was constructed in the 17^th c CE.


*The 18^th c. CE staircase that leads to the 13^th c. CE Veliki Revelin Tower.*	*The 17th c. CE Crkva sevtog Mihovila. Notice the bridge to the left, which leads to a private entrance for brotherhood members.*

Moving north on Korčulanskog, I came to Trg Sv. Marka Statuta 1214, the town's central and main square. Dominating the square on the east side is the Katedrala Sveti Marka, a Gothic-Renaissance transition architecture masterpiece constructed in the 15^th c. CE of Korčula limestone. Several architects participated in the construction, include Bonino di Milano, Hranic Dragosevic, Ratko Ivancic and marko Andrijic. The portal was constructed in 1412, with a triangular gable showing a mermaid, elephant and other sculptures. Sitting on capitals atop columns on each side of the portal are lions, which appear to be playing with smaller animals. The church has an impressive wood ceiling. Behind the main altar is a Carlo Ridolfi rendition of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, which is barely noticeable. On the north side of the church is an impressive chapel dedicated to Saint Rocco; the statues were carved in the late 16^th c. CE by Franjo Ciocic-Cucic.


*The Gothic-Renaissance transition Katedrala Sveti Marka, built in the 15^th c. CE*	*The cathedral's portal. Notice the lions on either side of the entrance.*

On Depolo, one block north of the main square, is the claimed birth home of famed explorer Marco Polo. Legend states that the explorer was born in 1254 in Korčula. While accepting that the Venetian often recruited their sea captain from the provinces, many historians refute this legend, in lieu of Šibenik as the true birthplace. Marco Polo claims to have traveled over land to the Orient, visiting places like China and India. Some dispel his stories as recounted stories from Arab travelers, judging by the elimination of landmarks such as the Great Wall.

The house is a 17^th c. CE structure. The HRK 10 entrance fee provides access to some kitschy prints of Marco Polo, plus an excellent view from the home's tower. Unfortunately, the museum was closed during my visit, so I was not able to witness the exhibits or the view.


*The tower of Marco Polo's home*	*Tower of the West Sea Gate*

The town's last two interesting sites are located in the southwest corner. The first, the Tower of the West Sea Gate, overlooks the West Harbor. A Latin inscription dates the town's origin after the fall of Troy, in Anatolia. Further south are the small and large Governor's Towers. These structures, built in 1449 and 1483 respectively, protected the harbor and the Venetian governor's palace. Both towers are shown in the picture below.

The base of the large Governor's Tower is shown in the foreground, with the small Governor's Tower looming to the right.

Travel Resources
For those interested in traveling to Korčula, there are a couple of resources available on the Internet.